Para la primavera, Bibhu Mohapatra fue inspirado por la transformación de su amigo Wendy Whelan en una bailarina moderna. (El veterano bailarín principal en New York City Ballet debutó criatura inquieto, un rendimiento de cuatro partes, en la almohada de Jacob en agosto). “Se encontró una vez más,” dijo el diseñador en sus días de estudio Garment District años antes del show. “Me gustó la idea de un nuevo comienzo”.
For Spring, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by his friend Wendy Whelan’s transformation into a modern dancer. (The longtime principal dancer at New York City Ballet debuted Restless Creature, a four-part performance, at Jacob’s Pillow in August.) “She found herself again,” said the designer at his year-old Garment District studio days before the show. “I liked that idea of a new beginning.”
While Mohapatra didn’t start from scratch with his latest offering, it did feel new: more confident and concise than past efforts. A digitized print depicting oversize palash—a fire-red tree flower found in India that he has long wanted to incorporate into a collection—appeared again and again in different colors on a white background. In fuchsia, it was shaped into a shirtdress with charming asymmetric pleating. A gold palash blouse was worn with a pencil skirt in the same print, but in a subtly contrasting sage green. There were coral, hot orange, pale pink, and black versions, too, each done in a classic shape: the shift, the skater, the tulip.
There was also embellishment. Mohapatra mostly went with 3-D adornment, including a nude crepe blouse studded with red-orange and dark lavender daisies, and a rose-colored mousseline gown with baby tulips scattered over the blouse. To counter these sweet looks, he incorporated a shards-of-glass pattern into a black organza frock with inverted pleats and a hand-pleated mousseline gown in sage. Mohapatra worked hard to make it all flow, and the result was a collection as sellable as it was thoughtful. Here’s to (somewhat) new beginnings.