El tiempo en Londres hoy era muy inglés: gris, húmedo, escalofriante. Los británicos se resignen a tiempo como este; es los hermosos días que les asombran. Así que Imagínate la incredulidad y el deleite que asistieron a este verano largo hechizo de sol: pueden así como han estado llamando libra monedas y trufas Champagne rosadas. Todo el mundo sentía rico y azúcar alto. Energía como la es contagiosa, y uno de la que ola de calor de este verano tienes que fue J.W. Anderson. “En realidad estaba hirviendo en mi estudio”, explicó después de su actuación hoy. “Que me hizo encontrar una apreciación de ligereza y carne desnuda.”
The weather in London today was very, very English: gray, damp, chilling. The Brits are resigned to weather like this; it’s the beautiful days that astonish them. So imagine the disbelief and delight that attended this summer’s long spell of sunshine: It may as well have been hailing pound coins and pink Champagne truffles. Everyone felt rich and sugar high. Energy like that is infectious, and one of the people this summer’s heat wave got to was J.W. Anderson. “It was actually boiling in my studio,” he explained after his show today. “Which really made me find an appreciation for bare flesh and lightness.”
There certainly was a lot of bareness on the Anderson runway. But the designer worked it to his own formal ends, playing with various ways of draping, suspending, twisting, and gathering material in order to reveal maximal amounts of naked skin. One top, for instance, was pretty much just a handkerchief-sized square of sheer fabric with a semi-obscuring square of opaque, scrunched-together material at its center. Another look featured broad, paperlike strips folded together to make a top you could have easily mistook for a collar. Not for everyday use, these pieces, but Anderson likes to push. The nudity worked as a balance against the weight of Anderson’s materials: This was a season of intensive textile development, with chevroned, linen-backed pleather; gossamer, organzalike nylon; thick embossed leather; multilayered sequined lace; and much more. Many of the materials appeared to have been sculpted into shape by hand.